THE ECLECTIC GRILLE,

Among the major contenders on Federal Hill, Eclectic Grille established itself as a heavy hitter a while ago. Like some other neighborhood mainstays, it started small and expanded four years later into larger quarters after word got around that diners were in good hands. Executive chef Joseph Rocchio, who owns the place with his brother, Anthony, and sister-in-law Karen, moved the restaurant up Atwells Avenue in 1998. Now there's a lot in back for the obligatory valet parking, and plenty of elbowroom inside for the expansive conversational gestures that first-rate meals inspire.

Full review.